Peter Swanson
First, let me admit my bias: During my teens I lived 2 very short blocks from the Wedge—a place featured in this film—and spent most of that decade dedicated to body surfing. I'm so pleased that there's finally good, professional film of my sport available. Until now there's only been the short sequence of the Wedge in The Endless Summer, and an occasional 10- second clip in a surfing film. Body surfing is the first and most elemental form of wave riding, and deserves to be recognized as a foundation sport. Every inlander who spends one day of his or her life at the beach tries to body surf, whether he's aware of it or not. Watching this film and seeing truly exceptional surfers at work is a transcendent experience. Mark Cunningham is basically a human sea lion, executing maneuvers and making waves which were the stuff of dreams of my youth. The big Hawaiians who turn into porpoises when they enter the water are also great fun to watch. I only refrained from giving this film a 10 because I'd like it to be longer, MUCH longer. Also, although I don't mind it not being edited together as a typical documentary, I would have appreciated having graphics naming the people interviewed when they first appeared on- screen. It took me a few seconds to recognize Fred Simpson, and I know him. This film is essential for lovers of the sea, and can be enjoyed by anyone who has ever had fun in water. I recommend it wholeheartedly.
